Parisian Pilgrimage / by Rachel Kellogg

Bonjour, bonsoir, enchanté. Are my French skills oozing on the page already? I don’t mean to gloat, but I can count to trois and say “très chic!” like I’m a local complimenting another local Parisians’ Dior loafers while walking along the Seine. Thanks, Duolingo!


In less delusional, more tangible news, I have compiled all of my favorite Paris spots into one, somewhat organized, place. After years of hopping across the Atlantic to pay my favorite city a visit, I figured it was time to use my screen time for good and stop committing my Paris whereabouts to memory. I will, however, miss my tedious photo searches of “Paris,” “croissant,” and “baguette” to find what gems I came across during my previous visits.


To the surprise of no one, this guide is by no means an expert or local opinion. However, I do fancy myself a gal of above average taste who can sniff out a major tourist trap a whole meter away, with a keen eye for an aesthetically pleasing street, people watching café, or the spot for your 10th street crêpe of the day. I’m not saying you’re in great hands, but I am saying you’re in decently good, callused hands. Be sure to leave a comment if you use this guide for any of your Parisian travels. Bon voyage!

Le Food

Alfred - Located in the 1st arr., Alfred is a fabulous dinner spot with sleek décor and a great menu. Alfred is made even more fabulous by its mere 5-minute walk from Rue Saint-Honoré (more on that below). Go here after an oh-so-very treacherous shopping day. Order the puff pastry dessert for the table for good measure and thank me later.

Le Petit Marché - Located in Le Marais, this is hands down my favorite restaurant in Paris. Honestly, I seriously considered gatekeeping this gem, but I figured my small, eclectic readership (including, but not limited to, my mom, brother, SIL, and bridesmaids) would not be powerful enough to break the internet with this rec. The menu is in French, so either stop ignoring your Babbel notifications and learn the basics, or cross your fingers for an English-speaking waiter. Oh, and order the tuna (either for your d’abord or ensuíte) - trust me.

Carette - You may be thinking “Rachel, if I’m getting famous drinking chocolate I’m going to Angelina,” or “Rachel, this place is just an Instagram hotspot for the influencers trying to make a buck.” Regardless of your thoughts, I’m here to tell you that you can skip the line at Angelina and park yourself down at Carette for some heavy duty drinking chocolate, fluffy whipped cream, and overly indulgent desserts. They have a few locations, but I recommend the one in the Marais. If hot chocolate isn’t your thing, grab a pain au chocolat or palmier from their bar and head across the street to Place des Vosges and enjoy the fruits of Henri IV’s labor.

Chez Alain Miam Miam - Tucked away in Marche des Enfants Rouges, this is the spot that, to this day, has put any and all sandwiches in my life to shame. It’s my sandwich moonshot, if you will. Located in the Marais, “Yum Yum’s” sandwich stand is understated… until you see the line wrapped around the corner. Trust me, it’s worth the wait. He is hilarious and charismatic and his sandwiches may change the world. If not the world, your life.

L’as du fallafel - Le Marais is known for its falafel, and sometimes the lines speak for themselves. L’as du fallafel is on Rue des Rosiers and usually has a line down the block. Embrace the wait, get your falafel, and head to one of the neighborhood parks to scarf it down.

Little Breizh - If you’re feeling classy and want a sit down crêpe instead of a street crêpe, you’ve found your place. Located in the 6th arr., Little Breizh has delicious savory & sweet crêpes. Bonus points that its exterior is blue and cute!

Chez Fernand - If you’re in the mood for authentic French food (if you’re not, please ask yourself… why?), look no further than Chez Fernand. The beef bourguignon is cooked to perfection, their baguettes are cut at the counter next to the tables, the lamb shank falls off the bone, and the wine is delicious. When you go, just make sure that you’re going to the right location. There are two within a 7-minute walk of each other (both in the 6th arr.). May or may not be speaking from experience.

Didon - Tucked away on a sleepy side street in the Saint Germain, Didon was a “help I don’t have a dinner reservation and it’s 6pm on a Friday” moment with the hotel concierge gone right. The restaurant is teeny tiny. My table was right next to the glass window of the kitchen, so I was able to make lovingly awkward eye contact with the chef as he cooked my steak to medium rare perfection. The dishes are unique and lovely.

The Smiths Bakery - You may walk by The Smiths in Saint Germain and think “tourist trap if I’ve ever seen one!” And honestly, maybe it is, I don’t know. But I also don’t care. I first came here my sophomore year of college when I visited my childhood best friend who was studying abroad in Paris. Perhaps it was the fleeting feeling of being 20 skipping around Paris, ordering myself a pâtisserie and espresso, but this place holds a special place in my heart. Order yourself a pastry and cappuccino, sit at one of their outside tables, and take in all of the people on Rue de Buci.

La Jacobine - You can’t go to France without trying French onion soup, right? I’m sure you’ve seen La Jacobine on a list of best onion soups in Paris, and it’s true. This is the best soupe à l'oignon, onion soup, I’ve ever had, and they know it. They’ll laugh at you if you don’t have a reservation, so be sure to call to make one if you want in on the goodness.

Aux Merveilleux - This is not an original recommendation whatsoever. It’s also not a Parisian classic, and I’m fairly certain they have locations in New York now. Chain pâtisserie aside, it’s delicious. Get yourself a chocolate cramique (or as I call them, a “poof”) and enjoy the warm, buttery brioche melt in your mouth. They have locations all over Paris, but I went to the one in the Saint Germain.

Pierre Hermé - If you want macarons, don’t waste your time at Ladurée. Sure, it’s cute and popular, but you can go in New York or DC. Go to Pierre Hermé, which you’ll find all across Paris. Get the rose and milk chocolate passion fruit. Bring some back for me.

L'Éclair de Génie - Who knew éclairs could be so beautiful? L'Éclair de Génie has made delicious éclairs an art, literally. With multiple locations across Paris, these decadent treats are worth the splurge.

Le Shopping

Rue Saint-Honoré - Ready for some major girl math? Here we go - whether you’re waiting to buy yourself your first Dior bag or your 70th Gucci belt, you’re better off going to Europe. Not only is shopping a much more enjoyable experience abroad, but you also save money by getting a refund on the VAT (value added tax) of most items you buy in the EU (just don’t forget to bring your passport!). We have to spend money to save money, ladies! So, now that we’re aligned, here’s my next plug - please don’t subject yourself to the lines on the Champs-Élysées. It’s not that cool, and you’re better than that. Instead, head on over to Rue Saint-Honoré in the 1st arr. Every designer under the sun will slap you right in the face. They’ll treat you nice and get you fancy water. Pro tip: if (nay, when) you try on shoes at Dior, they’ll give you a piece of Pierre Marcolini chocolate with your water. Eat it, it’s delicious.

Le Bon Marché - Malls in Paris hit different than malls at home. While you may miss your Auntie Anne’s and revolutionary curling iron kiosk, you’ll quickly forget once you stumble across the designer couture and take in the beautiful ceiling decorations. I’m sure you’ve heard of Galeries Lafayette as the MOC (mall of choice) in Paris, but unless you enjoy sharing your shopping experience with 1,000 other global tourists, save yourself some time and claustrophobia and hit Le Bon Marché. Located in the 7th arr., you’ll enjoy the same stores with a better experience. If none of this has convinced you, they have a Sézane, which is all you need to know.

Jimmy Fairly - Think Warby Parker but better. You can’t walk around Paris (or any city in France for that matter) without coming across a Jimmy Fairly. I’m pretty sure I’ve yet to walk out of the store without a cute branded tote in my hands. Their sunglasses and regular glasses are equally chic and functional. Pro tip: if you buy reading glasses and have your prescription with you, they’ll ship your glasses to you with your prescription!

Jonak - Similar to Jimmy Fairly, it’s hard to miss a Jonak in Paris. They’re everywhere, and for good reason. Some of my favorite shoes are from here. My most comfortable and cutest loafers are from here, as are my wedding shoes. Talk about a multifaceted shopping destination! Their prices are reasonable and the shoe quality is great, which is a real stamp of approval coming from me who has managed to destroy 1 in every 5 pair of shoes I’ve ever owned.

Pop up flea markets (Brocantes) - Around the city, flea markets pop up on the weekends. If you’re like me, you may be having flashbacks to parking lot flea markets from your childhood selling repurposed tupperware and second hand Forever 21 tank tops. These flea markets, however, are nothing of the sort. From furniture to jewelry to fine china to clothes, you could get lost in these flea markets for hours. We stumbled upon the one in Place des Vosges on our last trip and can attest that you could genuinely spend hours scouring through all of the booths. We displayed an unusual sense of self control and walked away with only one vintage Chanel sweater. Don’t be afraid to negotiate the price a bit and bring euros with you.

Le Sites

Legit everywhere - I’ll give a few tidbits here, but you don’t need much guidance. There is SO much to see in this beautiful city. If this is your first time visiting, I understand that you’ll want to visit the tourist classics. Just promise me that you’ll turn down cute side streets, avoid the tchotchkes sold outside the Eiffel Tower and Louvre, and avoid restaurants with photos on the menu. Stroll along the Seine, stay off your phone while enjoying a glass of red, and chitchat with the people sitting next to you on the bistro chairs.

If this is your first time visiting, here are the sites/things to do worth checking out:

Jardin du Luxembourg - The garden is tranquil and beautiful. When it’s sunny and warm, cute kiddos sail model boats around the Grand Bassin duck pond. The Panthéon is also a 10-minute walk and worth visiting on your way to the Latin Quarter.

Palais-Royal - If you’re in need of a shopping break while on Rue Saint-Honoré, this is the one place I’ll allow you to escape to. Walk the Jardin, take some cheesy photos on the Colonnes de Buren, and embrace your inner royalty.

Montmartre/Sacré-Cœur - You too can stroll around the the artists’ village that Picasso and Dalí used to frequent. The cobblestone streets are beautiful and the views of the city from the hilltop are pretty hard to beat. Check out the local street art (maybe buy yourself a watercolor or two) and take a photo (or ten) in front of La Maison Rose.

Pont Alexandre III - While I did watch two influencers spend an hour taking photos of each other during sunset last time I was here, it only added to my joy of watching the lights of the Eiffel Tower twinkle on at dusk from Pont Alexandre III. The bridge is beautiful and worth a stroll.

Notre-Dame - Of course, we all know that tragedy struck the Notre-Dame in 2019, but it’s reported to open back in December 2024. A must see once it’s restored.

Place des Vosges - Probably the most referenced place in this whole blog, Place des Vosges is my favorite park in Paris. Location (check), picnic accessibility (check), vibes (check).

Boat tour along the Seine - The closest I’ll let you come to a “hop on, hop off” bus tour, the mega-boat tours on the Seine are actually quite nice. Are you sardined on a ferry boat? Sure, but you get to see a ton of Parisian landmarks from the water. I personally think a tour at dusk is best.

Palace of Versailles - You’ve seen it in your history books (hello, Treaty of Versailles) and in the season 2 finale of Emily in Paris (hello Hall of Mirrors fashion show), the Palace of Versailles was a pivotal place in French history & for Netflix viewers globally. Less than an hour outside of Paris, it’s a must-see landmark.

Maison de Claude Monet - Admittedly, I have not been to Mr. Monet’s home. However, I’ve heard through trusted sources that it’s a lovely place to visit if you’re looking to take a trip just outside the city. The home showcases his water lily ponds IRL, and a lot of his other work.

Le Accommodations

Relais Christine - Tucked away on a sleepy side street (Rue Christine) in the Saint Germain, Relais Christine is by far my favorite hotel I’ve stayed at in Paris thus far. The hotel is gorgeous, from the entryway courtyard, to the incredible wallpaper, to the bathroom tiles (yes, this is of utmost importance - see below). The hospitality is also wonderful. Bonus points for an excellent breakfast to kickstart your day.

Hôtel Les Dames du Panthéon - A stone’s throw away from the Panthéon, this hotel is perfectly located near the Latin Quarter. The rooms are lovely, and the breakfast is in a cool, stone cave that makes you feel like Medieval French royalty.

Maison Colbert Meliá Collection - Perfectly located between the Latin Quarter and Marais, Maison Colbert is a wonderful place to rest your pretty little head. It also has a lovely entryway courtyard and a great breakfast spread.